Addis Ababa

Empress Taytu chose the hot springs of Filwoha as the site of the new capital, moving the court down from Entoto. Addis Ababa grew into the seat of the Ethiopian empire and later a meeting place for Pan-African diplomacy.

The National Museum holds 'Lucy' (Dinknesh), a 3.2-million-year-old early hominin, while Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Red Terror Martyrs' Memorial Museum tell more recent chapters of the country's story.

Bole is the modern hub near the airport, with most hotels, restaurants and nightlife. Piassa is the historic centre with Italian-era buildings, goldsmiths and old cafés. Kazanchis is a business and hotel district near the UN Economic Commission for Africa. Arat Kilo holds the university and museums, and Old Airport is a quieter residential area.

The dry season (roughly October to February) brings sunny days and cool nights and is the most popular time to visit. Short rains can fall from March to May, and the main rainy season runs from June to September, when days are cool and often wet.

Major festivals include Timkat (Epiphany) in January and Meskel in late September, both celebrated with large public gatherings.

Start with the National Museum, Unity Park inside the former palace grounds, Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Red Terror Martyrs' Memorial Museum. Drive up Entoto for views over the city, and spend time in Merkato, one of Africa's largest open-air markets.

Meals are shared from a large platter of injera, a sourdough flatbread made from teff, topped with stews such as doro wat, shiro and tibs. On Wednesdays, Fridays and fasting seasons many restaurants serve colourful vegan platters.

Ethiopia is the birthplace of arabica coffee. Accepting a cup at a traditional coffee ceremony is a warm gesture, and long-running cafés such as Tomoca are city institutions.

Ethio-jazz, made famous by Mulatu Astatke, is played live in several venues. Azmari bets offer traditional music with improvised, witty lyrics, and cultural restaurants stage regional dances over dinner.

Merkato is organised into sections for spices, baskets, textiles and recycled crafts. Shiro Meda, on the road to Entoto, is known for hand-woven cotton clothing and scarves.

Bole International Airport is the hub of Ethiopian Airlines and a short drive from Bole and Kazanchis. Ride-hailing apps and metered taxis are the easiest options for visitors; the light rail and blue-and-white minibuses serve many routes.

Many visitors apply for an e-visa online before travel; check the official portal for current eligibility and fees. Cards are accepted at larger hotels and restaurants, but carry birr for markets and taxis. Local SIM cards are sold at the airport with a passport.

The altitude can cause mild breathlessness for the first day or two — drink plenty of water and take it slowly. Drink bottled or filtered water. Check vaccination requirements with your doctor before travelling.

Dress modestly, especially at churches, where shoes are removed and women usually cover their heads. Eat with your right hand. Ethiopia uses its own calendar and a 12-hour clock that starts at dawn, so confirm times when booking.

One day: coffee in Piassa, the National Museum, Unity Park, then a cultural dinner in Bole.

Two days: add Holy Trinity Cathedral, Merkato and sunset on Entoto. Three days: add a day trip to the Bishoftu crater lakes, about an hour south-east.